Fashion Glossary
Here we collect some definitions for fashion terms that
we use for "Getting dressed in former times".
Modeglossar
Hier wollen wir einige Definitionen von Modebegriffe sammeln,
die wir für "Ankleiden in historischen Zeiten" benötigen.
Sortiert sind sie nach den englischen Übersetzungen.
Boater - "Kreissäge"
The boater is a straw hat with a brim, flat
top, and a wide silk band around the crown. It was a hat style
that was particularly prominent during the early 20th cebntury.
It was worn by men on seasonal basis during the Summer. Men
of all ages wore them. Boys did not commonly wear boaters,
but we do see a few boys wearing them during the very early
20th century. It began to decline in popularity during the
1930s. We even see some younger women wearing them in the
early 20th century.
These hats had class connotations. You wouldn't see them much
among working-class men.
Ein Modesilhouette der 1870er und 1880er mit
besonderer Betonung des Damengesäßes. Für
den Begriff Tournüre gab es zahlreiche Names- und Schreibvarianten.
Besonders die Tournüre der 1880er wurde auch als "Cul
de Paris" bezeichnet, zu deutsch "Pariser Hintern".
Spöttisch wurde die gewagte Rundung "Prachtpopö"
genannt. Tournüre wurde auch Turnüre geschrieben.
Das englische Pendant ist "bustle".
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Bustle - Tournüre
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Ein Modesilhouette der 1870er und 1880er mit
besonderer Betonung des Damengesäßes. Für
den Begriff Tournüre gab es zahlreiche Names- und Schreibvarianten.
Besonders die Tournüre der 1880er wurde auch als "Cul
de Paris" bezeichnet, zu deutsch "Pariser Hintern".
Spöttisch wurde die gewagte Rundung "Prachtpopö"
genannt. Tournüre wurde auch Turnüre geschrieben.
Das englische Pendant ist "bustle".
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Flat cap
The flat cap was a very popular style in America
during the 1900s-30s. Conventions in America and Europe were
quite different. In Europe the flat cap was a sporty style
worn by young men for golf or other outdoor events. And an
even more common convention was that it was worn by working
men. In America, it was also worn as a sporty style by young
men, but it was much less worn by workers. Primarily it was
a boys' style. Virtually every boy in the 1910s and 20s had
a flat cap. We have seen some European boys wearing them,
but probably except in the Soviet Union, it was not as widely
worn as in America.
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Cut-away jacket
We believe this is the best term for a kind
of jacket, that actually is "cut-away". These kind of jackets
are only fastened at the top and with a mostly curved front
exposing the waistcoat below. So far we do not know if this
term was used at the time they were popular, the 1850s-80s.
Or if so how commonly. Some period sources seem to have called
it a "Zouave" jacket, at least the ones with Zouave styling
(trimmed with braid in an obvious way). We have seen it used
since. A modern term may be "bolero" jacket. It is often used
for girls' outfits. The two terms we believe describe essentially
the same garment. We try to get to the lowest common denominator
so to speak - the generic term. This often means creating
a single term for consistency throughout the homepage, even
though there was no such accepted term at the time. The way
to do this is to use a term describing the garment physically.
We think cut-away jacket is a good basic description for all
the different types such as Zouave and Fauntleroy as well
as the plain, unadorned jackets of the 1860s. Zouave may have
been the first of such jackets, but that does not mean that
this should be the generic term used.
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Zouave-style cut-away jacket
A Zouave-style cut away jacket is a cut-away
jacket (see "cut-away jacket"-denition above) with
Zouave styling. Zouave styling usually includes lavishly trimming
with braid. Often there are bright colors and sometimes these
jackets are combined with baggy pants.
Eine passende deutschsprachige Übersetzung
fällt uns hier leider nicht ein. Das übersetzte
Ergebnis wäre ein unglaubliches Begriffsungetüm
("Zouave-Stil Weggeschnitten-Jacke"). Wir bleiben
deshalb beim englischen Begriff, der auch schon komplex ist
und beschreiben, worum es sich hier handelt.
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